It could be a number of things really but you may have the tensioner a bit too tight on the feeder to start. Does this happen with every spool or just the one?
However, we would be happy to help troubleshoot the material with you if you would like to reach out to us at Support@Matterhackers.com
I am from Los Angeles so buying the Pulse over the Prusa was a no brainer. The support of the experts at Matterhacker have been extremely awesome. I have 7 other 3D Printers, Dremel 3D20, 3D40, 3D45s. I like solidly made machines with the best support available. Bosch Dremel is one of the biggest companies in the world and they have the means to provide superb customer service, but the support of Matterhacker is just as good. The Dremels are solidly built and are pretty much fire and forget when it comes to PLA using Simplify3D. But I needed a machine that would print in NylonX and Kevlar.
As far as printing goes, the Pulse XE is like the US version of the Prusa except it is really tailor-made for my favorite filament, NylonX. My Pulse XE prints almost round the clock for the past 3 months on nothing but the most abrasive NylonX and I have never had any problems except when I spilled coffee on the bed while it was printing. My only regret because of this is not buying the case for it.
From my years of printing, calibrating printers is always a pain. My Pulse XE was ready for a fight right out of the box. I put it into production the moment I plugged it in. The details are superb and I rarely ever touch the pre=configured settings unless I need to add more perimeters or more infill. But most of the time, I just feed it filament and print directly from Matter Control.
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
It is not a machine that we have used or tested in house and have not made a profile for it accordingly. MatterControl is open source and you certainly are able to manually create a profile. As long as the machine uses G Code, MatterControll will be able to operate the machine.
To do this, you can navigate to Hardware> Add Printer> Other. From here, you can ender the printer's specifications and dial it in accordingly.
I am not sure specifically which brush that is but that looks to be a regular brass brush you can get at a hardware store.
Though, I would advise caution in using something like this with the machine powered up. If the heater cartridge cable comes loose and the brass touches the exposed wires, it can cause damage to your machine. I would advise only using this brush while the machine is disconnected from power.
walmart, target etc any place that sells cameras. But get one 16gb or smaller as many printers cannot handle bigger card. if you get a bigger one you got to split it so the first partition is smaller 16 gb
Hi! Thank you for replying. Else i have been just staring at all the forums
The thing is, the printer has been working flawlessly for the past 6 years.
I have even checked the installed firmware hex files and the comparisons show that all of these have been loaded successfully.
Inference : the board is receiving the firmware.
But it just doesnt get out of the bootloader mode.
I even opened up the control unit, cleaned the board, checked for sticky buttons.. But nothing! I feel sad.
@sparkes Try to play with the manual settings. When I tried to connect my Chiron it went to com4 at 115k baud and it did nothing changing it to com3 and 250k baud did the trick. Also make sure you have the driver installed that came with the A10 if it came with one
2.0 does indeed allow you to manually create and delete individual supports.
I have included a little beginning tutorial video we have done on the software here:
I guess pretty much the same as SLIC3R. I can't remember the last time I used supports. As its mostly mechanical parts I am printing and as I think 99.99% of what we are printing is designed in house its all designed to print without supports - Sorry. I just know there is an Auto and manual option
@mpirringer Thank you for the reply. I pulled it back apart and noticed that the wire sleeve on one side was pulled back a bit from the bulb. I may have clamped it down to hard and caused the short because of the un-sleeved bit of wire. I carefully replaced the thermistor into the block making sure the ends of the sleeves were in the hole with the bulb, and was careful to only lightly tighten the screw....and it appears to be working fine again. Thank you again!!