PETG is going to work a lot like PLA in the aspect of it's looks but you will need to bump up the extrusion temp by 30c and the bed should stay about the same at 55c or so. So your extrusion temp should be about 245c to start and depending on the manufacturer you will need to adjust a bit more.
This has a bit to do with settings but the software is right the overhang does not need support. So essentially this kind of edge is right there on the cusp of not needing support and needing it.
I would say to force supports but make sure an option called "Dense Layer Support" is enabled in the settings. Some software's will call it something different but for the most part it creates a raft like support between the part and support. This will help clean up overhangs a bit but may not eliminate the issue.
Try increasing the fan percentage on those early layers and run just a bit slower. Other than that the angle is fairly steep so cleaning it up is going to be a bit tough.
Being that I am unable to post a gif in here at the moment (something is not working on my end) I will post the video of using MC 2.0 cutting tool here
Take a look and see if that is essentially what you are looking for.
Sorry to hear about your trouble, and sorry for the delay in response time. https://github.com/BCN3D/BCN3D-Cura-Windows/wiki/Updating-the-BCN3D-Electronics-firmwareThose are the instructions for the traditional method of updating; were you following those when "something went sideways?" What happened, specifically?
@livid said in Has my board died?:
physically broken. But d
While I am not too familiar with that printer I would say that it is possible that the touch screen could have the control board embedded directly and this might be the cause of your issues. I would check all connections on the printer control board and touch screen and from there see if you can get a replacement board.
It is possible that this is a grounding issue as some touch screens on printers have had the same issue's and I found more often that if the screen was not broken it was simply not grounding it's self.
Again, all shots in the dark here but maybe a good starting point.
I apologize for the delay here on the response, any chance you forgot to link the name of the board you are using to try and flash?
In my experience the flashing of a board from the Arduino software is fairly straight forward so it may just be a simple setting that has been missed.
We do have a helpful guide here if you would like a good starting point.
Thanks for posting, but I am not sure what the issue you have encountered is, maybe I am missing something but I need to know what the problem is exactly.
It also looks like you are using something other than Arduino for pushing the firmware, maybe try that and see how it goes?
At the moment as you have found, we do not have a profile for the Tornado. unfortunately I do not yet have a guide on setting up a profile for alternative machines but it is fairly simple when you look at it.
Essentially you need to set up a new printer with the Other/Other option and set the Baud rate in the slicer to be able to connect to the Tornado. From there it is all about configuring the printer in the slicer and running tests.
If you run into any problems you can ask me and I will answer them as best I can.
I wanted to kick in here and see if I could be of assistance. First off, @Framemanager, a few things with the first being, are you sure your Baud rate is actually set to match the printer. It looks like 25000 is the setting for the Mega. If this was not set correctly then you might not be able to send a command. To set it you can follow this gif!
From there you should be able to run the "Extrude command" from the extruder option at the top of the screen.
Let me know how that goes!
It is tough to say what the exact problem is going based off of one picture but I will give it a shot. The first question I have is, have you been watching to see what the printer is doing during the print? I know we can see the exact output of the printer but if you watch it, do you hear anything or seen anything out of place?
If you were to print a cube you would be able to measure out the exact X and Y dimensions which would help with finding the solution.
I have not cracked open a Finder in a good long while but I recall them having some couplers holding the X and Y axis rods on the motor shafts, these could be loose. So lets see what the Cube shows and from there we will know a bit more.
Thanks for dropping into our forums, I would actually recommend dropping us an email at firstname.lastname@example.org as our sales team will be able to assist you in determining the best machine for you with consideration of shipping cost. We can check the shipping cost of the machines as we determine the best suited one for your use.
Depending on volume of print area you are looking for we have a rather good range of printers for someone who is looking for more of an advanced setup. Not to be too biased but the Pulse printers are really nice and a good value for their cost. Not to mention that you can customize it to fit your needs so long as you stay in the same build form factor.
Let us know what your requirements are, I hope we are able to find a good fit for your needs!
Sorry for getting over to this one so late but hopefully this information can be used be other people in the future to resolve the same question.
So while we do not have a profile for the Geeetech machines we do allow for the creation of other profiles. Normally I recommend to set up the printer as being "Other" in both Make and Model and from there I configure the profile and rename it after.
You can find the printer setup by going to the "Hardware" Tab and clicking on the + icon next to "Printers".
That sounds like the Baud rate may not be set correctly, take a look in Mattercontrol and see if in the Printer Settings you can change the rate the be the same as in the S3D Profile.
You will find the Baud rate if you enable the "Printer Settings" in Mattercontrol and get this tab as shows below.
Unfortunately I an not going to be able to tell you what the Baud rate is directly so this one you may need to figure it out but luckily it sounds like the S3D profile has the right one at the moment.
Let us know what you find!
@gghouck said in Taz printer expansion project:
What you are attempting to do is the bane of desktop 3D printers. The larger the footprint on the bed, the more power you are going to need to be able to heat the bed. As a result, you will have to do a "bypass" on the bed heater and power that directly from a different power source. All of the logic will still go through the motherboard, but the power would need to be separate. Currently, there are no off-the-shelf boards that will allow you to run the power necessary to heat your bed through the board itself.
Want a CR-10, we have an Ender 2 and had the same issue, but realized that if you take the card out, you have to reset so it will read it. I think it says INIT SD CARD and that allowed it to read the card, you may or may not already know that.
I know it has been awhile, but if you calibrate your extruder output, you will not have to putz with the extrusion multiplier. Plus, your model is quite under-extruded so you you may still be trying to find the right multiplier. Calibrate your extruder and then you can "fine tune" while printing. Also, make sure you have the nozzle diameter set to match the nozzle installed on your printer. Hope this helps if not too late.