@mooose14 I dont remember how cause I have stopped using MC but there is a way to display the table of coordinates from leveling and you could check the Y offsets in that table should all be reasonably close to each other. If that does not work I would create a new printer from scratch and try it there. You could also try to call support,
OK I think it might be The Stepper Connector is / has a loose wire?
Only driving 1/2 the motor as the head moves to the left it disconnects a pin? then the stepper shudders as is only half powerd?
3: You will have to secure the cables properly?
maybe make an aluminium bracket and bolt it to, 2 of the stepper screw at the rear, they are open from the looks at the vid.
and check where the motor connector and harnes is attached to the HE Assembly for loose /poor wire joints
As it only does it on the one side it eliminates many othe possibillities and focus is drawn to a wire under tension on a loosly attached harness?
We recently purchased Lulzbot Workhorse and Pro printers which do not repeat with their respective Z offset from print to print, my belief is that the automatic bed leveling sequence is hitting way to hard on the initial hit during which it is pressing the bed down an estimated .07" to .1" which does not allow the bed to reset correctly for the slow touch. I am wondering if there is away for me to change this process without reprogramming the firmware completely. We do not have a lot of detailed experience with edit the firmware. We did not have this problem with our TAZ 6's. This the only major item that is plaguing us, as long as we tune in every time the results have been great.
It could be a number of things really but you may have the tensioner a bit too tight on the feeder to start. Does this happen with every spool or just the one?
However, we would be happy to help troubleshoot the material with you if you would like to reach out to us at Support@Matterhackers.com
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
@randal You have to create a custom printer if its not listed its the last option. You need to know your stuff like com port , baud rate etc for starters. Isn't there a slicer that came with the printer? they usually do like Cura or SLIC3R etc which IMO both are more powerful than MC - but if you like it - go for it
Looks like your Nozzle hit something on the print seems the x axis. That can happen if a part of the print curls up and then hits the nozzle. It can also be caused by a belt that is way too loose. You seem to print with a lot of perimeters and PLA seems to like to curl up on overhangs when you do that. Its one of the reasons I personally prefer other materials over PLA try to print it with 3 perimeters an a 10% infill or switch to PETG or ABS or HIPS if your printer can handle it
Get an Anycubic Chiron - we got 2 - its an animal. Big, 400x400x450, 24 V heated bed heats up quickly, out of the box good to print PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS and some nylons like bridge. For the hotter stuff replace the ptfe tube with a capricorn one. With that it will do 255-260 reliably. How reliably 50kg+ of HIPS eacg reliably so far. We had 2 fails between the 2 of them so far both a broken wire - one on the print head thermistor - one on the bed thermistor. Both came with standard wires and now have been replaced with silicon covered high flex ones. We figured the x axis wire failed after moving back and forth about 3 million times and the bed one after about 5 million times. We print a lot of big stuff in HIPS so the printer gets a real workout. They might get 30-40 minutes break a day (just enough to change filament and let the build plate cool down to about 60C to pop the print off. Otherwise its 255 nozzle 105 bed all the time. Oh and I broke a hotend cross threading the nozzle when changing the nozzle. But that is hardly the printers fault. Compared to a Pulse less than 5% the downtime of the Pulse.
I am not sure specifically which brush that is but that looks to be a regular brass brush you can get at a hardware store.
Though, I would advise caution in using something like this with the machine powered up. If the heater cartridge cable comes loose and the brass touches the exposed wires, it can cause damage to your machine. I would advise only using this brush while the machine is disconnected from power.
walmart, target etc any place that sells cameras. But get one 16gb or smaller as many printers cannot handle bigger card. if you get a bigger one you got to split it so the first partition is smaller 16 gb
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