That is a great question!
To be honest, I am not entirely sure.
I seem to recall the machine needing to still be tethered to a computer with the SD card installed as you will need a slicer like MatterControl to initiate the print. If in the event the computer goes to sleep, I believe the GCode from the SD card will continue the print.
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So, I was following the instructions to update the firmware, however, when I Cura's Automatic Update prompt came up it said my firmware update version was UNKNOWN, so I grabbed the .hex file for the version the latest version from GitHub (probably my mistake), and told it to update. Immediately my Mac USB disconnected and the Cura said the printer was no longer connected. The LEDs went green then red and it stayed in that position for a long time. So, now my Sigma won't boot and when I try to turn it on the right extruder goes left and hits the other extruder and starts making noise. Any chance there is a way to manually update the firmware without Cura? I cannot connect Cura to the machine anymore it won't recognize the Sigma. I am stuck and opened a support ticket with BCN3D. Any advice.
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I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
I am not sure specifically which brush that is but that looks to be a regular brass brush you can get at a hardware store.
Though, I would advise caution in using something like this with the machine powered up. If the heater cartridge cable comes loose and the brass touches the exposed wires, it can cause damage to your machine. I would advise only using this brush while the machine is disconnected from power.
walmart, target etc any place that sells cameras. But get one 16gb or smaller as many printers cannot handle bigger card. if you get a bigger one you got to split it so the first partition is smaller 16 gb
Hi! Thank you for replying. Else i have been just staring at all the forums
The thing is, the printer has been working flawlessly for the past 6 years.
I have even checked the installed firmware hex files and the comparisons show that all of these have been loaded successfully.
Inference : the board is receiving the firmware.
But it just doesnt get out of the bootloader mode.
I even opened up the control unit, cleaned the board, checked for sticky buttons.. But nothing! I feel sad.
@sparkes Try to play with the manual settings. When I tried to connect my Chiron it went to com4 at 115k baud and it did nothing changing it to com3 and 250k baud did the trick. Also make sure you have the driver installed that came with the A10 if it came with one
2.0 does indeed allow you to manually create and delete individual supports.
I have included a little beginning tutorial video we have done on the software here:
I guess pretty much the same as SLIC3R. I can't remember the last time I used supports. As its mostly mechanical parts I am printing and as I think 99.99% of what we are printing is designed in house its all designed to print without supports - Sorry. I just know there is an Auto and manual option
@mpirringer Thank you for the reply. I pulled it back apart and noticed that the wire sleeve on one side was pulled back a bit from the bulb. I may have clamped it down to hard and caused the short because of the un-sleeved bit of wire. I carefully replaced the thermistor into the block making sure the ends of the sleeves were in the hole with the bulb, and was careful to only lightly tighten the screw....and it appears to be working fine again. Thank you again!!