I Know its an Old post but may help someone my heater on hotend would say decoupled randomly. basically i changed my plug to it JST 2 Pin Connector 22AWG wires work best imo, but automotive spade connectors work too. just a poor or open in wire an it says decoupled. hope this helps
That is a great question!
To be honest, I am not entirely sure.
I seem to recall the machine needing to still be tethered to a computer with the SD card installed as you will need a slicer like MatterControl to initiate the print. If in the event the computer goes to sleep, I believe the GCode from the SD card will continue the print.
So the Mini 1 and Mini 2 have the same bed leveling system. Neither is adjustable by the user, both use the 4 points offset at the corners. The Lulzbot mini is a solid printer as is the Ultimaker, I think it is more of a question of, if you are going to be running anything other than PLA and PETG, is it easier to replace a nozzle or a tool head? The Ultimaker is going to be more cost effective in the long run because of the ability to replace just the nozzle with hardened ones or other sizes whereas the Lulzbot may require replacement of the tool head depending on a number of factors.
Thanks. The Panucatt guys had me change the Baud rate in my config file and mattercontrol from 250000 to 115200 and that resolved the halt issue. Viki2 still not displaying anything. Will continue troubleshooting.
So, I was following the instructions to update the firmware, however, when I Cura's Automatic Update prompt came up it said my firmware update version was UNKNOWN, so I grabbed the .hex file for the version the latest version from GitHub (probably my mistake), and told it to update. Immediately my Mac USB disconnected and the Cura said the printer was no longer connected. The LEDs went green then red and it stayed in that position for a long time. So, now my Sigma won't boot and when I try to turn it on the right extruder goes left and hits the other extruder and starts making noise. Any chance there is a way to manually update the firmware without Cura? I cannot connect Cura to the machine anymore it won't recognize the Sigma. I am stuck and opened a support ticket with BCN3D. Any advice.
Hi there @duoltd3d
Thanks for joining the community, you are in a bit of luck as I know the Raise systems quite well. Your first print does look quite good and in your case, I think that it would be best if you just let us know when you had any questions. I always try to pop in here every day or so to help out and offer up answers on some issues.
walmart, target etc any place that sells cameras. But get one 16gb or smaller as many printers cannot handle bigger card. if you get a bigger one you got to split it so the first partition is smaller 16 gb
Hi! Thank you for replying. Else i have been just staring at all the forums
The thing is, the printer has been working flawlessly for the past 6 years.
I have even checked the installed firmware hex files and the comparisons show that all of these have been loaded successfully.
Inference : the board is receiving the firmware.
But it just doesnt get out of the bootloader mode.
I even opened up the control unit, cleaned the board, checked for sticky buttons.. But nothing! I feel sad.
@sparkes Try to play with the manual settings. When I tried to connect my Chiron it went to com4 at 115k baud and it did nothing changing it to com3 and 250k baud did the trick. Also make sure you have the driver installed that came with the A10 if it came with one
2.0 does indeed allow you to manually create and delete individual supports.
I have included a little beginning tutorial video we have done on the software here:
I guess pretty much the same as SLIC3R. I can't remember the last time I used supports. As its mostly mechanical parts I am printing and as I think 99.99% of what we are printing is designed in house its all designed to print without supports - Sorry. I just know there is an Auto and manual option
@mpirringer Thank you for the reply. I pulled it back apart and noticed that the wire sleeve on one side was pulled back a bit from the bulb. I may have clamped it down to hard and caused the short because of the un-sleeved bit of wire. I carefully replaced the thermistor into the block making sure the ends of the sleeves were in the hole with the bulb, and was careful to only lightly tighten the screw....and it appears to be working fine again. Thank you again!!
That is a pretty old version - go to calibration I think its in the control section and under bed leveling there was an offset if you hover over it it say "thickness of paper" or something like that make sure that is 0 or real close to it and then level the bed. in this version the Z-offset works as intended so if you are too high you can put a negative number in the one under bed until you get it right but level first, Don;t upgrade until you fix that problem cause in current versions its even tougher to fix IMO. BTW I do not work for MH I am just an old dude with a Pulse (pun intended)
OTOH grab some PLA - MH Build PLA will work. Make sure the part is less than 50mm therabouts tall. Crank the bed up to > 80 (depending on size up to 95) use an enclosure (like the one you are selling) Make sure the print last > 2hours if not print a 2nd item or something else with it. when the print is done let it sit until the bed is completely cooled down. Now you have an at least partially annealed part. If you want to make double sure put it in a convection oven at about 150F for an hour and let it cool down after that. Now you got a PLA part that will beat ABS in heat resistance. But its still hard and brittle. Maybe slightly less brittle but still brittle like PLA is.
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