There are plenty of reasons to change your AIM Mail or AOL Mail password. You may suspect that your account has been hacked. You may want to change your password to something stronger and more difficult to deduce, or you may just want your AIM Mail or AOL Mail password to be something you can easily remember.
Whatever your motive, don't bother looking for a Change Password link in AIM Mail and AOL Mail—you won't find one. This doesn't mean you are stuck with your current password. You just have to take a step back toward what AOL calls your "screen name." Even if you only sign up for AIM Mail, you are the proud holder of an AOL screen name.
Change Your AIM Mail or AOL Mail Password
Step 1: Visit the "My Account" page on the AOL website (see Resources).
Step 2: Click the "Forgot Password?" link in the sign-in form.
Step 3: Enter the AOL username for which you've forgotten the password in the subsequent form, as well as the CAPTCHA information. Click the "Next" button.
Step 4: Select the option to receive a verification email at the alternative email listed in your AOL account, if you have previously one. If you have, but you don't remember the email address you listed, click the "hint" link in the verification section to see it partially identified. Click the "Next" button, then check the inbox of this email address for the verification email; click the link in the email to go to the password reset page.
Step 5: Enter a mobile telephone number at which you can receive a verification code via SMS text if you don't have an alternate email address listed in your account or if you want to use an alternative verification method. Click the "Send" button; once you receive the SMS text on your phone, enter the code into the form and click the "Next" button to go to the password reset page.
Step 6: Answer a security question you've previously assigned to your account as an alternative to the SMS and email password reset methods. With this method, you must also enter either an alternative email address or enter the first and last name of the account holder.
Enter your new password on the "Create Your New Password" page, and then type it again in the form. Your new password must be between six and 16 characters and is case-sensitive. Click "Next" to finish setting your new password.
AOL recommends that you add special characters, such as symbols and punctuation marks, to strengthen your new password.
So the Mini 1 and Mini 2 have the same bed leveling system. Neither is adjustable by the user, both use the 4 points offset at the corners. The Lulzbot mini is a solid printer as is the Ultimaker, I think it is more of a question of, if you are going to be running anything other than PLA and PETG, is it easier to replace a nozzle or a tool head? The Ultimaker is going to be more cost effective in the long run because of the ability to replace just the nozzle with hardened ones or other sizes whereas the Lulzbot may require replacement of the tool head depending on a number of factors.
Thanks. The Panucatt guys had me change the Baud rate in my config file and mattercontrol from 250000 to 115200 and that resolved the halt issue. Viki2 still not displaying anything. Will continue troubleshooting.
So, I was following the instructions to update the firmware, however, when I Cura's Automatic Update prompt came up it said my firmware update version was UNKNOWN, so I grabbed the .hex file for the version the latest version from GitHub (probably my mistake), and told it to update. Immediately my Mac USB disconnected and the Cura said the printer was no longer connected. The LEDs went green then red and it stayed in that position for a long time. So, now my Sigma won't boot and when I try to turn it on the right extruder goes left and hits the other extruder and starts making noise. Any chance there is a way to manually update the firmware without Cura? I cannot connect Cura to the machine anymore it won't recognize the Sigma. I am stuck and opened a support ticket with BCN3D. Any advice.
Suggest you call tech support on this. I know hobby king sells belts and they are sold as 3d printer belt cause seems like they all use the same size - but I'd call MH just to make sure. Otherwise mine loops through the bracket and flips ove on itself so its own teeth engage and you either got a bracket or a zip tie or something like that to keep it engaged
Hi there @duoltd3d
Thanks for joining the community, you are in a bit of luck as I know the Raise systems quite well. Your first print does look quite good and in your case, I think that it would be best if you just let us know when you had any questions. I always try to pop in here every day or so to help out and offer up answers on some issues.
That is a pretty old version - go to calibration I think its in the control section and under bed leveling there was an offset if you hover over it it say "thickness of paper" or something like that make sure that is 0 or real close to it and then level the bed. in this version the Z-offset works as intended so if you are too high you can put a negative number in the one under bed until you get it right but level first, Don;t upgrade until you fix that problem cause in current versions its even tougher to fix IMO. BTW I do not work for MH I am just an old dude with a Pulse (pun intended)
OTOH grab some PLA - MH Build PLA will work. Make sure the part is less than 50mm therabouts tall. Crank the bed up to > 80 (depending on size up to 95) use an enclosure (like the one you are selling) Make sure the print last > 2hours if not print a 2nd item or something else with it. when the print is done let it sit until the bed is completely cooled down. Now you have an at least partially annealed part. If you want to make double sure put it in a convection oven at about 150F for an hour and let it cool down after that. Now you got a PLA part that will beat ABS in heat resistance. But its still hard and brittle. Maybe slightly less brittle but still brittle like PLA is.
Have you checked the Baud Rate? It may need to connect at 115200 but the default is 250000.
That is the first place I would look.
If that doesn't work you should check and see if you can connect with just a terminal program.
Unfortunately, My knowledge on the Inkspire is quite limited but from what I have seen, it appears to be a capable printer. I have worked with Zortrax printers for the last few years in FDM and for the most part, I have never really had a bad experience. From some of my interactions with Inkspire customers of ours, it seems that it does take some getting used to but for the most part, it is a solid system backed up by a good slicer. The only downside I have seen voiced which is consistent is that the slicer is a bit slow.
Guess it would entirely depend on quite a few factors. Like how big are they? What kind of functionality are you looking for? What kind of Material etc. Its kinda if you say I got a lot of stuff to get from A to B what is the best vehicle. Could be a car, a van, a truck, a tanker if its liquid or maybe an airplane or a freight train
@dda1 said in Filament with continuous service temperature range: -68*C to 180*C and/ 15*C to 30*C.:
I'm currently looking for a filament that has a continuous service temperature range of -68C to 180C and/ 15C to 30C.
Please include sources with replies.
We print a lot of Nylon. What you need is a full metal hotend like an E3D V6 or a microswiss etc and preferably a garolite bed Thats pretty much all you will print around 250 to 280 and the bed needs to heat between 60 and 90 depending on the Nylon you print. If you have a .4 nozzle slow down to about <30 with a .8 to about < 20mm/sec. An enclosure helps with warping just like with ABS and HIPS etc if you print large prints.
I got mine last september. There is/was a learning curve. We put so far a little over 40kg of filament through that thing there were some problems mainly due to miscommunications as to the capabilities. Like from the literature at that time it was not clear that the temp max for the nozzle is about 280/285 for the E3D V6. True there are E3Ds that go to 400 but not this one. So that cost some thermistors. There was a wireing problem with the bed (the wire was not tied down properly in the electronics case so the movement of the bed back and forth caused arcing in the connector which damaged the connector.) But that all was fixed by MH (and I hope current models dont have that problem) there are some things I'd like to improve like the connection of the PTFE to the BodenTech extruder. The change I posted is right now in the 2nd kg of printing. The hotend/fan shroud could be better and some other things. But all in all we are currently putting 4-6kg of filament a week through that thing (with a .8 nozzle) printing mostly big frame parts. We (FRC team 1989) are trying to 3d print a whole 32x28x52 inch robot (not in one piece) including gear boxes, frame wheel mounts etc. We have developed planetary gear systems, rack and pinions, regular gears and are printing in Nylon (mostly Taulman as they partially sponsor us) HIPS (For frame parts and gear prototypes as its only $12/kg at Hobby King and way better than ABS) and PETG. Occasionally some PLA (working of getting the manufacturing process down to have it come at least semi annealerd from the printer and the finish anneal it with keeping the dimentional distortions within specs) . So all in all its working most of the time. And yes you will have to bed level once in a while especially when you change the bed temp quite a bit, The garolite bed we have holds on to anything so far (next test is going to be some flexibles and polypropylene and we got a roll of POM/Delrin donated). Well we learned how to take that thing apart if necessary and keep it running. So if you have any questions ask and just so you know I do not work for MH and don't get a cent if you buy here or not. I am just an Old Dude with a Pulse.
It looks like you may have already reached out to us on our support email but to touch base on what you have here. I would say that it is likely an incorrectly installed FEP sheet in the vat, we have noticed this out of the first batch and as we continue to record data on the Moai 200 we will send the information back to Peopoly for adjustments in their production. For now, I would say to disassemble the vat and clean out all the resin with water and alcohol, from there reassembling the vat with one of the replacement FEP sheets included in the accessories.