@mooose14 I dont remember how cause I have stopped using MC but there is a way to display the table of coordinates from leveling and you could check the Y offsets in that table should all be reasonably close to each other. If that does not work I would create a new printer from scratch and try it there. You could also try to call support,
@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
We recently purchased Lulzbot Workhorse and Pro printers which do not repeat with their respective Z offset from print to print, my belief is that the automatic bed leveling sequence is hitting way to hard on the initial hit during which it is pressing the bed down an estimated .07" to .1" which does not allow the bed to reset correctly for the slow touch. I am wondering if there is away for me to change this process without reprogramming the firmware completely. We do not have a lot of detailed experience with edit the firmware. We did not have this problem with our TAZ 6's. This the only major item that is plaguing us, as long as we tune in every time the results have been great.
I got tired of replacing teflon insulation bushings and grinds on my UM2+s. I have several UM3 BB print heads that I don't use and with a little playing found that the adaption to a UM2 is very easy. I'm currently printing with ABS and I found the material flows WAY better with the UM3 hot end. The orientation of the cartridge heater, nozzle and thermocouple is better for responding to temperature drops in the nozzle. Maybe some of you can also use this.
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
@tmitch205 Depends. On the Jheads that come with the Anycubic Mega/Chirons the Volcano is a direct fit size wise. Now E3D uses Thermistor type 5 and some jheads do to. Some (And some V6 clones like the ones from Gulfcoast robotics which work as well as the original V6 with the same shortcoming) use Thermistor Type 1. Also Jheads are usually not all metal and in the firmware set to a max temp somewhere between 240 and 260. If you go to a V6 you can up that temp a bit in the Firmware. But if you only print PLA/PETG you can drop it right in unless the thermistor type is different Now thermistor type 1 and 5 are similar but if you run a 5 with the 1 table you are going to run it about 20C cool and if you run a 1 with a 5 you are going to be about 20 C hot - so its manageable but if you were printing PLA at lets say 215 the new temp might be 20 C more or less to get the same results
@mrihatespam01 Not on a CR10 but on multiple Anycubic printers. Unless you go thermocouple and copper block you will be limited to about 300C now both Semitec and Epcos can handle that and then some more. Now each thermistor either already has a table in marlin and you just change the thermistor type ot 1 or 5 or whateve it is or if you use a specialty one then you got to add a table and make it that custom number. Same if you go to thermocouple. When you buy them they usually either have a table to download or say its "Type (whatever)" Now then set the max temp to about 5 C above the maxtemp you want to print with so if your Thermistor/block/heatercartridge is limited to 290 then make it 295 to protect it and at the same time allow for some fluctuations. After you are done you will have to (most likely) run a PID tune and also re-level your bed.
@randal You have to create a custom printer if its not listed its the last option. You need to know your stuff like com port , baud rate etc for starters. Isn't there a slicer that came with the printer? they usually do like Cura or SLIC3R etc which IMO both are more powerful than MC - but if you like it - go for it
Looks like your Nozzle hit something on the print seems the x axis. That can happen if a part of the print curls up and then hits the nozzle. It can also be caused by a belt that is way too loose. You seem to print with a lot of perimeters and PLA seems to like to curl up on overhangs when you do that. Its one of the reasons I personally prefer other materials over PLA try to print it with 3 perimeters an a 10% infill or switch to PETG or ABS or HIPS if your printer can handle it
Get an Anycubic Chiron - we got 2 - its an animal. Big, 400x400x450, 24 V heated bed heats up quickly, out of the box good to print PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS and some nylons like bridge. For the hotter stuff replace the ptfe tube with a capricorn one. With that it will do 255-260 reliably. How reliably 50kg+ of HIPS eacg reliably so far. We had 2 fails between the 2 of them so far both a broken wire - one on the print head thermistor - one on the bed thermistor. Both came with standard wires and now have been replaced with silicon covered high flex ones. We figured the x axis wire failed after moving back and forth about 3 million times and the bed one after about 5 million times. We print a lot of big stuff in HIPS so the printer gets a real workout. They might get 30-40 minutes break a day (just enough to change filament and let the build plate cool down to about 60C to pop the print off. Otherwise its 255 nozzle 105 bed all the time. Oh and I broke a hotend cross threading the nozzle when changing the nozzle. But that is hardly the printers fault. Compared to a Pulse less than 5% the downtime of the Pulse.