@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
@mpirringer I find it humorous that you posted an article with this as the first line in the conclusion, "Although short fibre-reinforced composites offer better mechanical performance than their
unreinforced counterparts, there is still a certain gap between the mechanical properties of preimpregnated
fibre and conventionally manufactured fibre-reinforced polymer composites."
This is precisely the point I made. Furthermore, the research paper cited literally only tested CF Nylon for impact resistance, not tensile strength like my data
I spent nearly a decade doing injection molding. The fact that you suggest that "science" says otherwise about the strength of composite materials with chopped fibers means that you simply have zero experiential knowledge on the topic.
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
You describe the exact situation I find myself in today. Recognizing your post is nearly 2 years old, I wonder what printer you chose and whether you were satisfied by its performance. Please let us know. I'm ready to pull the trigger on a good printer but would appreciate an objective review.
@portisroads Most likely a problem in the Start Gcode or in slicing. Please post that if you can and maybe the first 20 lines or so of the sliced files - I'd say all of the sliced file but MH has some quite stringed limits on what you can upload here
@bernardfunguy Which PLA and what temperature. Filaments print the same at the same temperature 1mm above the build plate or 400 (given you have a printer that goes that high)
IF the temp is too low you might form a "Puck" after a while that clogs your nozzle or you might have a wiring problem that shows at a certain height
Now stringing can be sometimes reduced with changing retraction and in some cases you got to live with it and remove it either mechanically or with a hot air gun
@ashira2020 Probably the best low budget choice would be either one of the Ender 3 Series from Creatlity or one from the Mega series from Mega series.
But at the same time I probably would not eat of FDM 3d Printed anything unless there is some major post processing done. The problem is not if the material itself is food safe. There are layers and where they meet there are little nooks in which bacteria can collect as its very difficult if not impossible to get into all of them to properly clean it after first use. So that would require to employ some surface smoothing post processing technique to eliminate them
@wildbill360 Move the head to the 0,0,0 position (all the way bottom left the furthest away you can get from the extruder) Stick the tube into the hotend heatsink all the way and put the clip on then see how much tube you need for a comfortable fit to the extruder. Add about an inch as it sticks into the extruder and there is the length. If its a little too long its ok. Too short OTOH is bad as you always can cut a little off but you cant add. The If its a little longer than necessary it should not hurt In general you want it as short as reasonably possible
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