looks like your running a rambo mainboard to if want to auto turn on at a given temp check my post on same issue for solution http://forums.matterhackers.com/topic/452/rambo-1-...
since sounds like using the print software to manually engage the e3dv6 cooling fan rather than part cooling fan might be having same issue.
if not just take note of the auto fan temp part.
ok right off the bat lets check extrusion caliper or decent ruler manually heat up hotend to current filament temperature then remove the bowden tube pull slowly the tip of filament will be multon. next cut the filament off flush to the end of tube.
with hotend still at temp you should be able to use manual control and extrude a given length. extrude 100m then measure you should have a 100m length of filament stick out the end of the bowden tube let know if under or over and by how much.
if havent altered any settings it should be very close but its one of easy items to check.
finding filament debris is a good sign well in that we can see a cause the extruder grinding threw the filament. as for the z height it is set when the printer z homes and touches the endstop switch giving it Z 0 POS a sheep of standard print paper is best to set the bed to hot end distance.
home printer usual front left corner, this sets it to 0 then adjust bed corner till it is just close enough to add a little friction to the paper sliding under then move hodent to other 4 and repeat adjusting bed till its same height.
(edit)Found this step by step for your ulti 2
thats right forgot about that tho its not using any gui or output like hdmi wander if any info on amp draw when its running in console only mode.... (just looked up ok this isnt going to work tho a pi uses little amps when not running a full gui the usb ports with a wifi dongle will.)
ok looks like a change of plans ill do direct to 12v from psu and use a voltage regulator to step down to 5v.
but to be sure ill have to test the draw and see what the pie is actually using at full tilt printing with Repetier-Server if its 800 or less should be ok to power the pie.
thanks for schematic not sure how i missed that.
will update with what i find out.
(Update: Well that didn't take long to figure out MX1 VCC and GND tho is 5v the rambo won't be able to supply the power so will have to use a voltage regulator just so happens i checked my parts draw and i have a few DC-DC Buck Converters bought a 10 pack on sale some time ago and forgot about them :D )
last year i got a anet a8 (basic entry lv printer to understand 3d printers) Was actually a much better machine then i thought. o.0
lost my mainboard to power surge. i decided to go with the Rambo 1.3L from matterhackers threw amazon and been very happy ever since a great board. since then have built a whole new machine from scratch.
placing the rambo and a raspbery pi 2 into a handmade aluminum enclosure. id like to clean up a bit. seams the pinout for the 1.3L is hard to find dose anyone have a full pin out not just motor and extruder.
i want a 5v out (Afraid to take a multi meter to my baby without a diagram) powering the raspberry pi2 from gpio so i don't have to have both a power cord and a phone charger connected a clean single power cord to the utility box would be awesome.
@AReed030188 as unlimitedbacon said 195c sounds awful low but also the bed should be around 60 Several things can cause jams so more setup info is needed IE have made any mods to your ultimaker? going on that its all stock its not much different from my custom built Bowden feed nozzle diameter so lets touch on the possible causes of a filament jam on this setup
in testing i got these very frequently here some steps took to solve the issue (since about 20ish prints no more jams)
1. Is the cooling fan for the heat break activating from time the hot end starts to heat up or from looks of ultimaker design large heatsink? (my case i altered the marlin firmware to turn it on when ever the hot end is 50c or above.)
2. is your first layer being squashed against the bed?
3. Temp and first layer height pulled right from colorfab's sight on XT and ultimaker2
ULTIMAKER 2 – SPEED AND TEMPERATURE SETTINGS
4. lastly is the bowden extruder set to tight and digging into the filament? (cause filament to jam in the hot end) if it has been in past it will scour your ptfe tube and cause jamming
hope one of these helps your issue and happy printing :D
would depend on what you plan to do for printing parts you learn how to model parts with gradual slopes so don't need to worry about support material.
if your more the using organics and models then simplify is quite good at helping generate very good support structures id say its the softwares strong point see youtube vid
if not just about any will do hope that helps you or anyone else wandering the same.
have had the rambo 1.3 for several months now to replace the china board i have just upgraded to the e3dv6 and been using it this last week. issue is i now want to add a part cooling fan and have noticed the e3d fan is operating like the part cooling fan.
so here is the setup e3d plugged into Extruder 0 Heat 0 and fan 0 running marlin 1.1.0 rc7 and repetier for printing with cura slice plugin.
which pin do i use .for a part cooling fan 2 or just use fan 1? and how do i tell marlin which is which?
end result i would like the e3d cooling fan to come on when extruder is activated and off when it is switched off at end of print perhaps even once it has cooled to 50c would be better. as for the part cooler to be used as the fan0 is now as i hear it ramp up
when bridging id assume fan 0 is being treated as the part cooler fan.
Ok nm i've figured it out :P i was looking in configuration_adv.h of marlin firmware per a guide i was using i should have been in pins_Rambo.h as that was defined in configuration.h with #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMBO
#define FAN_PIN 2 (Was 8)
#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 8 (was -1)
#define EXTRUDER_1_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define EXTRUDER_2_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define EXTRUDER_3_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 50
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255 // == full speed
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