It will be difficult to get higher than 100C without insulating the bed, or putting it in an enclosure. You can safely heat it up to 120C.
What is grinding? The belt? The nozzle? Which model do you have? (There should be a sticker on the back of your machine if you aren't sure)}
For the layer height, what material are you printing that isn't sticking to itself when you print smaller layers? Temperature?
There isn't an API or any plug-ins available (yet) that will let you use MC with the MPCNC. You can run gcode through MatterControl, but you need to generate the toolpath with CAM software (fusion360 is full-featured and free).
I built an MPCNC about 6 months ago, and ended up running it as a 3D printer for a little bit. I would highly recommend not making your machine compatible with Easel just for the sake of using Easel. We have an X-Carve, and Easel is pretty terrible in terms of features and usability.
You don't *need* to if the temp stays stable at the target.
You can change them to the default values on the wiki, or you can run a PID autotune to get exact values for your machine/setup.
In MatterControl, open a Terminal window (Options > Show Terminal). Then enter the command, M303 S250
This will run the PID autotuning for 250C. You can tune to any temp you'd like - 250 is good because it's in the middle of the average functional range for 95% of filaments (200-300C).
When it's finished, it will spit out Kp, Ki, and Kd constants. You don't need to flash new firmware to enter these - they can be changed via EEPROM. You can access EEPROM through the Options tab in MatterControl.
Enter them in the appropriate spots and be sure to save it.
Done and done.
Ok. Open Marlin.ino in Arduino.
Go to the Config.h tab (should be the 2nd tab)
You're looking for the line "#define heater_0_maxtemp"
The default is 275. Change that to 350 (310 is the max you'll likely need for any filament currently available, but the PT100 can handle higher temps than the 100k thermistor that comes with the E3D)
Next, look for #default_axis_steps_per_unit (X, Y, Z, E0, E1)
You need to change the value for E0 for the Bondtech steps/mm. You will likely need to use the default value from Bondtech, and then measure it and adjust to get the exact value.
Once you've done that, go to Tools > Board, and select the Arduino Mega 2560. Then Tools> Serial Port, and select the port your printer is connected to.
Then click the Right Arrow icon (next to the check mark) to upload the firmware to the printer. (Make sure you're not connected to MatterControl or Cura before doing this)
It's going to be easier to make this upgrade if you use the same temp sensor from the stock hot end.
The UM2 uses a PT100 sensor. The E3D uses a 100k thermistor cartridge.
The electronics are setup for the PT100, so switching to the thermistor will be a bit of a pain.
The OD on the PT100 and the cartridge should be close. If they aren't the same, are you able to drill out the heater block to accomodate the PT100?
If it's too big, the grub screw can be used to pinch it against the heater block.
From there, the firmware changes are pretty easy.
Download Arduino IDE from Arduino.cc
Then go to the Ultimaker Github repo and download the uncompiled firmware for your machine (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin)
Let us know when you get there and we can go to the next steps.
Ideally, you shouldn't need Z lift. Because it's common for Deltas to not be perfectly leveled, especially when out to the edges of the bed, Z lift can help. We likely won't be adding Z lift to support material for a few reasons, however you should be able to level your machine better so that your head doesn't run into the part.
Have you tried the 13-point software leveling in MatterControl?
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