I have owned my UM2E+ for about a year and half now and I have never been able to utilize the full volume of my printer. I have pretty well tuned in high detail and engineering grade prints a higher resolutions but I have never been able to successfully print much beyond 0.1mm layer heights. Every attempt I have made has massive amounts of under-extrusion between the layers causing the print to either fail or be incredibly weak upon completion. This increased layer height should very well be achievable on this printer and should enable me to make much larger prints in "sane" time frames but I have yet to figure out the settings on this thing to print at lower resolutions.
Could someone take a look at the settings I am trying to run to see what I am doing wrong here. I am running Simplify3D and printing the Buster Sword model from MyMiniFactory.com with MatterHackers white ProPLA at 0.2mm layer height.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0ByF9Te1bFt... gallery of the model I am attempting to print as well as my settings in Simplify3D
Well I believe I have solved the issue with grinding the filament by adjusting the tension screw but I am still having under extrusion problems periodically. I checked the feeder and the hot end after this print and I didn't find any loose filament dust and the bite into the part is minimal at best but I am still getting periodic weak layers leading to weak or broken parts.
I'm struggling to think of what would be causing this behavior of printing a good vertical length of solid layers with a handful of broken ones from time to time.
I suspect it might be the latter, I removed the bowden tube to do a pull and I found PLA dust all over the cool side of the extruder (resting on top of the PTFE heat break). I have't been able to tinker with it in a few days (very busy wrapping up a FIRST Robot for competition) but I plan on blowing that mess out of there and inspecting the extruder gear for debris and turning down the tension. I'll get back to you all in a few days and let you know how it goes.
I have also seen issue number two from time to time and I'm still not 100% on how the "CNC" picks up on the Z zero position when leveling the bed. I've found my best results are still obtained when using the little plastic/paper card that came with the machine. Any tips or tricks on how to get this right otherwise?
I've got a bit of a conundrum. I have printed with the stock Ultimaker PLA, ColorFabbXT and NGen and now I am using MatterHackers Pro PLA and I have noticed a trend, The PLA jams but I can remove it from the print bed while the XT/NGen has never jammed but wrecks my glass build plate upon removal.
I like PLA because it doesn't cost me a $35 piece of glass every couple of prints and it prints well enough when it works but very frequently I get a partially jammed nozzle and every once in a while it stops entirely. When I get a partial jam I get under extrusion of my layers and a very weak print and of course a complete jam causes it to stop dead on that layer. I have tried the recommended 'Atomic method' as suggested by ultimaker but this ProPLA seems to be too brittle to get a good clean pull to clean out the nozzle and the jams seem to be getting more frequent. Is there anyone else that is having that many issues with partial jams and complete blockages and if so what have you done to fix this issue? I've heard that if you set the temperature too high you can carbonize some material to the internals of the nozzle and cause a partial jam, so I have stuck to keeping the temperature as close to the manufactures recommendations as possible. I've never really messed with the extrusion multiplier or the filament diameter, I've always run name brand ("good") material and assumed it to be in good tolerance.
I am currently running an Ultimaker 2 Extended+ with a 0.4mm nozzle, my material is MatterHackers ProPLA 3.0mm Black, my settings are 195C extruder, 50C bed, 4.5mm retraction and 100% material multiplier.
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