@amilcar97 if you made a mistake you could have killed your driver. Theoretically the motor too but more likely the driver. plug the motor into another cable (like the x or y) and see if it turns if it does you blew the driver
@mm-barrett Probably depends on the surface you would have to try it and keep a close eye on it TPU sticks pretty well sometimes too well so maybe try your first print with some glue stick
@jdelise89 to my knowledge only by taking it apart or if its real bad by looking at it. If you for example have filament collecting on top of the block then it oozes out through the threads of the heatbreak same as with the nozzle if you take the nozzle off and there are filament leftovers in the thread or on top of it you were leaking. if the heat break or nozzle are not perfectly flat where they touch they wont seal well and you get a "puck" forming - obstruction by semi fluid filament at the spot of imperfection
@gripwik Interesting, as I typed my previous response, I looked at my screen and even sent a file to the printer (Pulse XE) and it printed fine with supports. Im at a loss at what could be happening. What printer are you using and what firmware does it use? It is the only thing I would suspect.
Thanks, I will try that and see if it works. I just started printing PETG today for the first time. I have a friend in California who needs a face shield. I’ve been monitoring the print and seems to have the same issue, places lifting off of the bed.
@wstuck As far as I know the answer is no. The panel just does what it does which is very little. If you find a good solution please let me know the Marlin bed leveling is also not working and available. MH I think did that to make the pulse barely operational without using Mattercontrol Nothing of the regular features seem to work without Mattercontrol, filament runout, power resume etc at least not on mine
@markland Biggest I printed in anything is about 400x400x400 but with pretty much anything and especially any Nylon you will need to up the Ambient so have some kind of heated enclosure. Now I'd probably would got a different route I'd probably print multiple pieces smaller out of something light like Hips or abs, glue them together - just use it as a skeleton and then wrap it in Fiberglass or CF here is an example almost 400 mm long L frame pieces being printed out of Hips with 1.2mm wall thickness 1 wall with a .8 nozzle
![alt text]( image url)
And then wrapped in 12oz FG for a test
Note No sanding or filling actually not even completely dry when the picture was taken it was just a proof of concept. Just to see how well the FG and epoxy bonds to the 3DP parts and it bonds well. Now if you want it real stiff I'd probably use some CF cloth and put some ribs in somewhere to give it stiffness Kinda like a milk crate Just an Idea. CF Nylon is stiffer than regular Nylon but has worse layer adhesion and tensile strength due to all those chopped up CF particles in it
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