Awesome! We look forward to you getting thing going as well. Reach out if you have any questions - there are many Rostock MAX builders within the community. Happy Printing, well... building for the first part of your career.
Moved this into it's own thread. Please do not hijack other people's threads in the future.
The MAKEiT meets most of your requirements, although the manufacturer specifies the maximum hot end temperature to be 275 C, not 300, and the bed size is slightly smaller than you want.
My question for you is, do you really need a second extruder? Most people who are getting started think they will need dual extrusion for support material, but in most cases it is unecessary and more trouble than its worth.
Yea messaged the creator and he made the lines thicker so I only had to scale up the model by 10% which is no biggie. I got it to slice correctly after he made the lines thicker but I still have another problem when printing the outer ring gets dislodged while printing and messing up the whole print so I was thinking of adding some support to the outer ring to connect to his manual support so it wont dislodge. I have my fan on max but the plastic still curls like crazy so I will try adding some support so the outer ring doenst come off while printing.
This is the toughest thing i've tried to print and I have printing a lot of stuff this is the first thing giving me trouble.
There isn't really a "extrusion speed" setting, but extrusion rate can be adjusted by using the Extrusion Multiplier function. This is a slice setting, but can also be adjusted on the fly during printing.
Since it went away by itself, I would check, if sensor wires (end stop switches, temp sensor wires)and the hot end wires overlap. Maybe the current in the hot end wires causes some kind of interference with sensor signals.
Looks like the newest version of the Chimera does NOT have those flats machined on the heat break. Should be ok though - thread in the heat break loosely to the correct location, then tighten the nozzle against the heat break. You should be able to hold the heartbreak with your fingers to prevent rotation, if you need to use a tool for the Heat Break use a soft pair of pliers as to not scar the Stainless Steel. We will reach out to E3D and see if they can update instructions.
I tried different temperatures, speeds and layer thicknesses. No luck. I noticed that the messiness starts at a spot where the z distance varies and I think that might have to do with a "flat tire" on one of my Rostock Max V2 cheapskates. I think I tightened it too much and one of the bearing sleeves got "sticky". I loosened the tension and the stickiness went away. I am now trying to see, if the prints in that area will get smoother.