The cleaning filament should extrude at any temperature above 180 C, so I don't think that is the problem.
It is a softer filament, which the EZStruders often have trouble with. The black bottom piece can be installed in 2 configurations. One way constrains the filament path more by having a guide that goes all the way up to the drive gear. Is yours put together that way?
swclark: I am most interested to see how long can the object remains on the glass before it loses adhesion. Also do you wait for the hairspray to dry before heating up the plate and/or start printing? erniehatt: Just thought of a problem. I apply the glue stick directly onto the glass just before heating it up. If I put too much glue onto the glass plate (i.e. layer of glue on glass too thick), will it cause the object to lose adhesion after prolonged printing? prolonged printing is very important for me because I have a 40cm x 40cm heated bed, and when I print large object, it will be easily an overnight, or even multiple-day job.
Mark, I tried the glue stick and had very little luck with it.
I normally thin the PvA about 60% water to 40% PVA, but these are experimental. I apply it as the bed is heating, I am trying some other ways that I will put on the forum if they work out.
The software bed leveling is applied as the gcode is being streamed to the printer. You can always check that it is working by opening the G-Code Terminal and looking at the commands that are being sent. Typically, G1 commands will not have Z values since the printer does not do a lot of moving up and down. Here is an example.