I think I'm experiencing a similar issue with dual extrusion on my Rostock max v3. I have a bondtech bmg etrurder on T0 ,404.6 steps per mm and the original ez extruder on T1 91.28 step per mm. On tool change the bondtech makes hi pitch noise and doesn't retract. The ez extruder does retract properly. Have you found a fix for you set up?
There's nothing in your settings that stands out to me. Just to be sure, though, I think you should try doing the same print in Cura with Ultimaker's defaults. If that doesn't work then I would try increasing your extruder temperature in 5 degree increments. I've noticed that Ultimakers like to run hotter than most other printers. We have an article coming out soon on the relationship between temperature and speed, so keep an eye out for that. I think it will be helpful to you. Also, have you tried adjusting the tension on the feeder?
I sure do appreciate your response. I did try blender and it wasn't to my full satisfaction- the texture did not stay on when I retopologed the mesh from triangles to quads. still thank you for trying....
Of the printers you mentioned and that we carry, the Ultimaker 3 is going to fit your requirements the best as far as reliability and stability are concerned. It's a solid machine with a good UI and mechanics. Not to say that the others aren't, but for the money, the Ultimaker 3 is the clear leader.
There's not really a drop-in solution for what you're looking to do, at least with an Airwolf printer. Lasers are complex machines, and can be dangerous if not properly designed and built. For this reason, you'll probably not want to try anything with a laser on an existing 3D printer, but rather build a machine that's meant for laser cutting, like the Lasersaur: http://www.lasersaur.com/
Another project that is good as a 3D printer or CNC is the Mostly Printed CNC, which uses a Rotary Tool as the tool head to cut or engrave: https://www.vicious1.com/assembly/
Turns out that the idler arm is broken. My last extruder assembly had the same problem and I printed a replacement on my MakerBot Printer using PLA. The design is still loaded so I am printing another. I love Open-Source printers!
don't worry, just the 2 rolls of filament (polyplus pla) that i had were bad... bilby3d stuff works fine
EDIT: that's not it. with the bilby i was trying to print at 210˚, but it would only preheat at 220˚... i think that the rafts that started at 220˚ and the part being 210˚ was what made it work... anyone have any ideas/support for me?