A hot end may smoke after servicing/ cleaning when using any cleaning fluid, grease, sweat from fingers or excess residue. I do not think that it is any cause for concern. Continue to feed filament out of the hot end and if the problem persists, open up a support ticket.
Thanks for the reply. I took a chance a just copied the wipe code into MatterControl, replacing the relevant section. Seems to work just fine. I'd be more comfortable if the bed didn't shoot so far forward, as the first tip *just* touches the wipe pad, but I'll worry about tweaking that later.
The Y axis for the 2nd extruder was "-50" (*minus* being the key), and seems to be working fine after a couple of test prints. It's weird thinking about how the numbers will be interpreted, but fortunately everyone seems to follow the same co-ordinates, so the dual extruder calibration steps for the TAZ 6 seemed to work just fine in MatterControl.
I did see the Printer Profile Bounty. Not sure that I would have any *significant* tweaking to qualify, but I'll keep it in mind.
It comes down to production scale and target markets. The MAKEiT Pro printers are made in small quantities relative to other manufacturers so there just aren't as many printers in the wild, and their target market are primarily universities and institutions.
Just to give you an example, JPL (Jet Propulsion Laboratory) and Cal-Tech were one of their first customers and to our knowledge still maintain a working relationship. If one were to speculate, you might surmise that due to the relatively small quantity of these printers on the market, it wouldn't quite make sense for a major publication like MAKE to commission a write up on these printers for their annual review since their business is to help move printers into consumers' hands during the busy season and the printers are made in small quantities. JPL/Cal-Tech probably aren't interested in offering feedback about the printer and its use cases for online forums; they're busy making history. Just speculation, but it would make sense if true.
In any case, I hope that answers your question. If you have other questions or insight please feel free.
This lets you mount a DyzeXtruder GT in place of the EZStruder. The DyzeXtruder is nice because it has a locking release lever, so you don't have to hold the lever while you insert or remove filament. It also has dual pinch wheels (like the Bondtech) and is fully constrained for printing flexibles. Print two of these. One goes on top, one goes on bottom.
Update 1/9/2018 Problem persists was printing perfect at 1.5 for last 2 days then started printing to high had to bump to 1.7 :/ not sure i checked everything from probe to lead screws nothing seams to move and is tight. if wasnt for this one issue i could hit print and walk away when it stays every print is spot on then just changes.
Your assessment is correct. These are the signs that one of the MOSFETs on the controller board has shorted out. If you inspect the board you may be able to find some visible damage to one of the chips. If you are good with SMD soldering and you have a hot air station, then you may be able to replace the component. Otherwise you are looking at buying a new controller board.
Uninstalling MatterControl does not uninstall the driver. To remove the driver manually, go to C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository and delete the mhserial.inf_... folder.
The mhserial "driver" really doesn't do much. The actual driver is built into Windows. Mhserial just tells Windows to use the driver it already has to communicate with certain devices. It sounds to me like your printer has some kind of hardware error.
MatterControl sends G-Code over a serial connection, so if the Trinus3D can support that protocol, it is compatible with MatterControl at the basic level. I noticed from a quick search about the printer that it also transforms into a laser engraver; this functionality is not inherent to MatterControl. Only the 3D printing side would likely work, though with some experimentation, you might be able to use the laser.
In any case, we don't have one, so we won't likely produce a profile for MatterControl in the short term future, but you can probably figure something out. Check out these links for more info:
The first part of the process is to go in the Menu under the "Settings" tab and select "Print core 1". Under "Print core 1", choose "Print core" and then select "AA 0.8". Next, go in the Menu under the "Settings" tab and select "Print core 2". Under "Print core 2" choose "Print core" and then select "BB 0.8". After that go to the "Print Setup" tab in the slicer and under the "Print core 1" tab, under "Print core & Material" select "AA 0.8". Next under the "Print core 2" tab, under "Print core & Material" select "BB 0.8". Do not be concerned if the options change under the "Settings" menu tab after completing the previous steps. The slicer will choose the Print cores that you selected in the "Print Setup" tab in the slicer when printing.
Refurbishing a printer can be a tough job. Getting into the nitty gritty details of how to perform each step of refurbishment is a little outside the scope of the type of help we can provide for free through our forum, but I'd like to try to point you in the right direction if I can.
The basic steps to refurbishing a printer are these:
1. Disassemble, clean, and reassemble any components or parts as necessary. Replace if needed. 2. Restore all mechanical functionality, and make sure parts interact with each other as intended. 3. Ensure all electrical connections are good. 4. Flash new firmware, if needed. 5. Test, adjust, and test again.
Eventually, if everything is configured correctly, the printer will work again. If something is off, or not working properly, you'll need to fix it before continuing.
That said, it sounds to me like you're hung up on number 2, as the X axis is not functioning properly. What about it doesn't work?
Depends on what Prusa i3 you are talking about. There are a lot of variants out there. If you get an Original Prusa i3 MK2, then it comes with an E3D v6 all metal hot end that can print Nylon. Others may not come with an all metal hot end, though.
The types of filaments a printer is able to print comes down to the maximum extruder temperature. In this case, the Mini is only capable of reaching 230°C, so it will not work for Nylon materials. Nylons require 250+.
MatterHackers does not carry a printer that is similarly-priced, so it's difficult to recommend a comparable unit. If you are interested in learning more about the printers we carry, please feel free to contact us directly and one of our sales agents can help you narrow down the choices to one that will suit your needs: https://www.matterhackers.com/contact
White PLA tends to require a little more heat than other colors due to the pigment used in the manufacture of the filament. While 185-205C can work for other PLA filaments, 215 is acceptable. If printing at 215 and you still experience clogs, bump up to 220 and give that a try.
If you continue to have issues with this filament please email email@example.com and we'll be happy to assist.
Sorry for the delay-- somehow I didn't see a notification for this post.
The banding in the pictures isn't layer shifting since it doesn't happen all the way around the part. It looks like more a function of the slicer. In the first picture, it is clear to see how the layers affected near the top of the part are only those during which the hole is being printed. This is probably that these layers are cooling at a different rate than those in the rest of the part, so you could try tweaking cooling settings.